# Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi Tell Emerging Brands: Show Repeat Purchase Data or Walk

*Luxury buyers now demand proof of customer retention before stocking new brands.*

By **Jenny Huang Goodman MPA MSc MHSA, Principal** — The Stash Edge, Hako Shikin LLC.
Published 2026-10-27.

Canonical: https://www.pops4.com/stash/articles/net-a-porter-moda-operandi-via-business-of-fashion-2026-10-27t06-7
Subject: Net-a-Porter, Moda Operandi (via Business of Fashion)
Tags: retail, buyer relations, retention, luxury, physical product, shelf play

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Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi have moved the goalposts for emerging physical-product brands seeking shelf space in 2026. According to Business of Fashion, both retailers now require emerging designers to demonstrate **repeat purchase rates** and existing customer retention data before committing to partnerships, a sharp departure from the aesthetic-first evaluation that defined luxury buying for decades.

The shift centers on a single metric: whether a brand's existing customers come back. Libby Page, senior market editor at Net-a-Porter, told Business of Fashion that the retailer now asks emerging brands to present data on their **second and third purchase rates** before evaluating product samples. Moda Operandi's buying team confirmed a similar stance, prioritizing brands that can show a proven base of returning customers over those with strong press coverage or influencer momentum. Both retailers cited margin pressure and inventory risk as drivers of the new requirement, with Page noting that stocking a brand without retention proof now carries unacceptable downside in a tightening luxury market.

The mechanism is straightforward: retailers are passing inventory risk back to brands. When a luxury platform stocks an emerging label, it commits capital, warehouse space, and merchandising attention. If the brand generates one-time buyers who never return, the retailer absorbs the cost of markdowns and dead stock. By demanding repeat purchase data upfront, buyers screen for brands that have already solved the hardest problem in physical goods: getting customers to buy again. A brand with a **30% repeat rate** over six months signals product-market fit. A brand with single-digit repeat rates signals a novelty buy, and novelty doesn't pay rent.

This creates a clear path for smaller physical-product brands targeting high-end retail or corporate gifting channels. The play is to build and document your own retention loop before approaching buyers. Start with a **90-day repurchase window**: track every customer who buys, then measure how many return within three months. If you're running a Shopify store, this is native in your analytics dashboard under Returning Customer Rate. If you're on WooCommerce or a custom stack, export order data to a spreadsheet and count unique email repeats. The number matters less than the trend. A brand moving from **8% to 18% repeat rate** over two quarters demonstrates momentum. A flat 5% repeat rate demonstrates a problem no retailer will solve for you.

Once you have the data, lead with it. When pitching a buyer, open your deck or email with your repeat purchase rate and the time window, then show the product. Write: "Our **22% 90-day repeat rate** is driven by corporate buyers placing quarterly reorders for client gifting." If your repeat rate is weak, delay the pitch and fix the product or the follow-up sequence. Send a post-purchase email at **day 45** offering a second-buy discount or a complementary SKU. Test packaging inserts that drive customers back to a landing page with a time-limited offer. The goal is not to fake the metric but to earn it before you ask a retailer to bet on you.

The broader pattern: buyers are treating emerging brands like venture capitalists treat Series A companies. They want proof of traction, not potential. If you're a one-person brand or a small studio, treat your first **200 customers** as a retention lab. Measure, iterate, and document. When you can show a buyer that your customers come back, you're no longer asking for a favor. You're offering a solution to their margin problem.

## The takeaway

Luxury retailers now require repeat purchase data before stocking emerging brands; build and document your retention rate first.

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## Publisher

**Hako Shikin LLC** — Virginia Beach, Virginia. Founded 1997. ASI 217876 · DUNS 18-204-6339.
Principal and author: **Jenny Huang Goodman MPA MSc MHSA**.

- Author: https://www.huanggoodman.com/about
- LLM context: https://www.pops4.com/stash/llms.txt
- MCP endpoint, for AI agents: https://mcp.pops4.com/mcp
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- Catalogue: 70,000+ products, 200+ brands