The luxury sector's valuation premium disappeared in Q1 2025. LVMH trades at 18.2x forward earnings while Inditex sits at 21.7x. Hermès closed Friday at 19.4x against H&M's 22.1x. This marks the first sustained inversion since the 2008 crisis, when the reversal lasted eleven weeks.
The shift started in November 2024 but crossed the zero line in January. Luxury conglomerates reported sequential quarterly declines in Greater China sales for four straight quarters. LVMH's Q4 2024 Asia ex-Japan revenue fell 11% year-over-year. Kering posted 16% declines in the same region. Meanwhile, Zara's parent company Inditex grew total revenue 10% in calendar 2024, with same-store sales up 7% in constant currency. Fast fashion's inventory turns remain above 5.2x annually while luxury sits near 2.8x, a spread not seen since pre-pandemic.
The demand signal is structural, not cyclical. Chinese consumers under 35 now allocate 22% less to luxury goods than they did in 2022, per Nielsen's Q4 tracking. That cohort drove 68% of luxury growth from 2015 to 2022. Simultaneously, fast fashion's digital-first positioning captured wallet share during the zero-COVID years and held it. Shein's private valuation dropped 36% in recent secondaries, but its revenue per customer rose 14% in 2024. The fast-fashion model adapted; luxury brands still run eighteen-month design cycles against six-week replenishment windows for Zara.
Allocators should note three follow-on effects. First, luxury M&A will reprice. Private equity paid 28-32x EBITDA for specialty leather and fragrance brands in 2021-2022. Current bids sit near 18-22x for similar assets. Second, margin pressure arrives in Q2 earnings. Luxury operates on 38-42% gross margins; fast fashion runs 55-58% due to vertical integration. If luxury discounts to clear inventory, EBITDA multiples compress further. Third, watch LVMH's April 22 earnings call. Management has never guided below mid-single-digit organic growth outside recessions. A formal reset would accelerate the repricing across Richemont, Hermès, and secondary brands.
The University of St. Gallen's luxury sentiment index dropped to 48.2 in March, below the 50 expansion threshold for the first time in thirty months. That index led LVMH's share price by an average of 47 days in prior cycles.